Take a break
3 days in Lyon
Perhaps the most relaxing way of getting to Lyon, one that avoids much hanging around at airports, is to travel by rail, and from the UK that is eminently pleasurable, involving just two rail journeys: one, a 1½-hour run to Lille, and then 3 hours on the TGV to Lyon Part-Dieu. Moreover, if you take the 1058 Eurostar from St Pancras, you get to Lille with enough of a time gap to wander into the city for lunch for a few hours before heading for the 1553 TGV to Lyon. You can, of course, fly to Lyon’s airport from Paris and London, and from some regional airports in the UK.
The city is known for its historical and architectural
landmarks and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon was historically known as an
important area for the production and weaving of silk, and in modern times has
developed a reputation as a centre of gastronomy.
If nothing else, Lyon makes a wonderful break from trooping
around Paris, and is much more relaxed about its place in the world. So, here
is my suggestion for a short break in this city on the two rivers.
Day 1: Vieux Lyon
No visit to Lyon would be complete without a journey into
Vieux Lyon. This old part of Lyon lies between Fourvière and the Saône, and was
formerly the hub of Lyon, and the focus of its silk-working industry with as
many as 18,000 looms in operation in the mid-16th century. Many of the city's
wealthy inhabitants lived here, in magnificent town houses, more than 300 of
which still stand. Space, however was at a premium, so this led to the
construction of a number of narrow alleyways, known as traboules. They are
a fascination not to be missed, built
perpendicular to the Saône, they were the solution to lack of sufficient space
in which to develop a conventional network of streets, by linking the various
You can spend a whole day here, wandering the alleyways that
beckon like an impatient child; it's an atmospheric place with the tang of la vraie France luring you on, and a
galaxy of restaurants and bouchons
giving plenty of reason to stop for lunch. There is a temptation to be drawn
upwards to the basilica on Fourvièvre Hill, but if time is at a premium then to
be honest this, for all its renown, brings little reward: the view over Lyon,
while impressive, is only truly great in certain light, and the big church is
just a big church of interest only to those who like big churches or study
architectural evolution. Of course, you could justifiably visit the splendid
Musée Gallo-Roman, for which you need the St Just funiculaire, alighting at Minimes. But, on balance, you might feel
that you can more usefully commit your time elsewhere than on Fourvièvre.
Day 2: Presqu'île
Presqu'ile is the modern face of Lyon, centred on the
peninsula between the Rhône and the Saône, with Place Bellecour at its heart.
Along the Rue de la République there are numerous shops, department stores,
cinemas, restaurants, cafés, bistros, all set against a backdrop of
architecture that is typically 19th-century Lyon.
At the very end of Presqu'île is Lyon’s newest attraction,
the Musée des Confluences, a magnificent new museum both architecturally
and in its content, which sets off to explain, well, the history of
everything...or so it seems. Do not miss this stunning experience, but do allow
a good few hours, including on-site lunch, to get the best from the experience.
Take the tram to Confluences to visit the museum, and then
use it to return as far as Perrache, alighting there and walking forward into
place Carnot for a coffee before heading on to marvel at the grandeur of Place Bellecour, wherein you will find the tourist
This huge square, all 62,000 square metres of it, is quite
magnificent, unless you've parked in the car park beneath it, and can't
remember which entrance you need to use to get it back!
In times past this was a large marshy area before undergoing
a series of identity changes that saw its use as an arms depot, a public
square, a Royal Square – thanks to Louis XIV – ruination – thanks to the
Revolution – until Napoleon ordered its reconstruction in 1802; only then did
it take on its present appearance. The large equestrian statue of Louis XIV at
the centre of the square is known locally as the ‘Bronze Horse’. Dating from
1828, it replaces an earlier statue, smashed and melted during the Revolution;
even this new statue was threatened with destruction in 1848 because of its
somewhat pompous inscription, but was saved by the Commissary Extraordinary of
the Republic when the inscription was replaced by one paying homage to Lemot, a
sculptor of Lyon – and that’s what you see today.
Some years ago I had visited the Musée des Beaux Arts to
view a self portrait by Rembrandt. I doubted that it would still be there – it
wasn’t – but I went to see anyway, and was reminded how impressive this former
Benedictine abbey – of the Dames nobles
de Saint-Pierre – really is; those recruits from the highest aristocracy in
France may have set themselves apart, but certainly knew how to dull the pain
I didn’t find the Rembrandt self-portrait, but by dint of
careful navigation I did find one painting by the Dutch master – La Lapidation de sainte-Etienne 1625 –
or, the Stoning of St Etienne. I puzzled over how you could kill someone by
bashing his head in with rocks and then naming a great French city after him...but
then it was lunch time!
With typically French sensitivity in matters gastronomic, I
found that you could actually reach the museum’s superb restaurant without
having to pay admission to the museum. So, if passing this way and in need of a
bite, do drop in, the dishes on offer are excellent.
Day 3: Enjoy a stroll through the Parc de la Tête d'Or
After two busy days patrolling the essential sights of Lyon,
it was good to relax and be less organised. That’s where a visit to the Parc de
la Tête d'Or played a part.
Situated on the banks of the Rhone, the Parc covers an area
of 105 hectares, and was modelled on the archetypal English garden. It
includes a 16-hectare lake created in an arm of the Rhône. The park also
includes the Botanical Garden of Lyon, created originally in 1796 on the slopes
of the Croix-Rousse, and transferred to the park in 1857; it is the largest
botanical garden in France.
The name derives from folklore, which proclaims that a
golden head of Christ is buried here; cynics might feel that it is simply a
ruse to get everyone in to do the digging. Be that as it may, I found the park,
in spite of my dislike of any form of zoo, a refreshing place, and certainly
much larger than I imagined...it was only one inch on my map.
The inherent danger of a limited-time visit to a great city
such as Lyon is that you spread yourselves too thinly. So from the parc, it
makes sense to head across to the Rhône, and stroll along its banks back
towards the centre; in summer there are plenty of barge-restaurants to
experience at lunch time, or simply to wander off, back into Vieux Lyon for a
leisurely recap. Whatever you decide, a three-day visit will allow you to get a
real flavour of this splendid city.
Alas, three-days does breed a longing to return.
C'est la vie.